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Gay Travel In Peru
Peru started growing on me before I even boarded the plane. The cute Peruvian check-in agent sensed that we were "family" which led us to share with him that we were about to embark on a gay tour to Peru. He went out of his way to share his favourite spots in Lima with us: Cafe Cafe just off the main square is his favourite place to people watch, while Cafe Haiti offers an unobstructed view of the main traffic circle in Lima's posh Miraflores neighbourhood.
Arriving in Lima we met our group of nine; four Americans, three Canadians, a Brit and a Peruvian (our gay local leader, Sebastian). The benefit of organized gay travel is that we not only tour the fabulous areas of Lima but also have an insider to show us the gay hotspots such as Lola Lounge (various theme nights for Lesbians and Gays) and Downtown Club (formerly known as Valetoto) where all the locals go to shake their thang, often until after 4am!
Adios Lima and on to the city of Cusco, known for its cobblestone streets and original Inca construction. This stunning city is also a haven for adventurers and luxury travellers alike. At approximately 3300 meters (10,800 feet) above sea level, Cusco serves as a main hub for trekking trips and tours to the famed Machu Picchu. This city has something for everyone. From quaint cafes and hidden plazas to great restaurants such as Baco (Ruinas 465, Cusco) specializing in wine and modern Peruvian cuisine and the well-known Fallen Angel (Plazoleta Nazarenas 221, Cusco). This gay owned and operated resto-lounge features modern art and decor including glass tables supported by bathtubs filled with goldfish. The wait staff aren't too hard on the eyes either!
After exploring Cusco, it's on to the Lares Valley where we start a challenging 3 day trek through the Andes. Early on day one we are joined by a mountain dog who we think has wandered from home. We nickname him Pumpkin and he follows us along the entire trek, only adding to the camaraderie.
Our journey peaks at 4,400 meters (14,500 feet) above sea level on day two of the trek. The views are spectacular, the sense of accomplishment huge. Our local guide David (not gay but VERY welcoming) has us participate in a ritual to pay tribute to the Andean gods. Followed by group hugs, "heart to heart" as David says, and for myself a silent moment to reflect - and tear up a bit.
Most travellers only know of the Inca Trail, but the Lares Trek offers a different perspective of this wonderful country. Hikers are given the opportunity to see how the Quechua people of the countryside live - which is in many ways no different from hundreds of years ago! They survive on the land, live in homes built of stone or mud and even wear somewhat traditional attire. Children often greeted our group looking for an apple or a pencil (outside of school hours) which we are recommended to carry along the trek. This is a truly unique opportunity that hikers on the more crowded Inca Trail do not experience. Simply amazing.
We camp under the stars, and stars there certainly are. I stretched out on a large boulder by the river one night with a fellow traveller to reflect and discuss the trip thus far. Within a half hour we spotted five shooting stars - one so bright that it lit the sky, enabling us to see the silhouettes of the surrounding mountains. After making our wishes (I'm a bit superstitious), we bundle up and hunker down in our tents for the cold night.
Our Lares journey should have come to an end mid-morning on day 3, but a peaceful local farmers strike blocked some nearby roads, forcing us to trek along a highway for a few additional hours. All part of the adventure, this ended up becoming a highlight of the trek with Pumpkin (our fearless canine friend) defending the group by chasing passing motorcycles along the way.
We eventually made it to Aguas Callientes, the nearest town to Machu Picchu where we boarded a bus to take us along the winding 25 minute ride to our final and ultimate destination - Machu Picchu, or "Old Peak". This is what we came for. This is it. There is but one cloud in the sky, smiles are contagious and cameras start flashing. Everyone has their ASKMEOUT shirts on, courtesy of OUT Adventures and there is an electric buzz in the air. Pictures just don't do justice to this magical place. Once home to an estimated 500 Incans, Machu Picchu took over 100 years to build - and was not even complete when it was abandoned. Like much of this region the grounds today are still maintained by Alpaca, an animal that resembles a small llama. After fully exploring the citadel, we have the opportunity to climb Wayna Picchu, or "Young Peak", for an almost aerial view of the sacred site below.
Back to Cusco with smiles on our faces, still in awe of the 9 days just behind us. A great group of travellers, a dynamic country, mouth-watering food, famous sights and most importantly the opportunity to make friends and experience a new culture. What more could a gay traveller ask for?
About the Author
Robert Sharp is a responsible travel advocate who has travelled to all seven continents and is also Co-Founder of OUT Adventures, a gay tour operator that specializes in small group adventures with over 25 worldwide destinations including gay tours to Peru. Visit www.out-adventures.com for more information.
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